I have always loved reading old diaries of distant lives. Here you can read my ongoing story, a log of riding a log (if you will) with musings, tales, poetry, jargon, secrets, cliches, whatnots and whatever else might pop into my head. So next time you are stuck indoors, pull up a warm chair and read about the simple happenings of my life in the Pacific Ocean.

Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Those Old Ways

Sometimes, I just want to be cool. Wasn't Junior High, like, forever ago? It has morphed and evolved, become more refined, dignified and nuanced, but it's still there: the the truth-or-dare secret desire to be just plain cool. When I go surfing, I often feel like I'm in Junior High. Sometimes, I am the sixth-grader who can never be good enough or sometimes, I am the eighth-grader, on top of the whole wide world, with dominion over as far as the safety officer will let you go. I have moved past friendship bracelets and tomagotchis (well kinda) on to single fins and surf reports. I don't have to be the best at tetherball but I do have to be the best at crossstepping. I don't chase boys around anymore, but I do cut them off from time to time. Competition, comparison, judgement, stratification, and playground elitism: from homeroom to homebreak. When I get in the water, it is as if I put on my old Adidas with sharpied harts and slip back into being 12. Except now I am supposed to be all grown up.

Sunday, February 26, 2012

Margaux the artist/noserider.

MARGAUX. from Shaper Studios on Vimeo.


Can't wait to be back on the bench...

Saturday, February 25, 2012

Goose Chase Gray


Friday after noon goose chase: Went looking for my buddy on the cliffs. White board, black wetsuit. I give up. Ran into some other friends who convinced me to come down. But wait, my board is being repaired as we speak. So Molly graciously offers me one of her boards. But its in her room up the hill. Run up to my apartment, grab my wetsuit then my roommate drops me off at Molly's room. Brake into her room and pick up her board and carefully maneuver it around the three sets of stairs then start the trek down the hill. Jonny! Thank goodness for that maroon Vanagon. So I once again accept a nice offer hop in with Jon and finally arrive back at the cliffs. Then I found all of the friends I could not find before. It was a lovely twilight session. After a while the all-encompassing-gray scared off most of the crowd and silvery waves we left for the brave few. Silver slide. Nice way to end a great chase.

Friday, February 24, 2012

Islands in San Diego

Islands - "Hallways" from Lex Halaby on Vimeo.



Come Thursday March 15 to see Islands at Queen Bee's Art and Cultural Center. It's gonna be rad.