I have always loved reading old diaries of distant lives. Here you can read my ongoing story, a log of riding a log (if you will) with musings, tales, poetry, jargon, secrets, cliches, whatnots and whatever else might pop into my head. So next time you are stuck indoors, pull up a warm chair and read about the simple happenings of my life in the Pacific Ocean.

Friday, June 3, 2011

Rules of the Game

Anyone who has been surfing for any amount of time knows The Rules. There is no where you will find these rules. Not a book or a carving in stone. You're not going to learn at surf camp. Most of the time no one will even tell them to you. But surely, they will come. Probably not in the most kind way.

Think about it. You probably know at least a few of these rules. "Don't take of on someone elses wave" is a basic one. But even with that there are many complications which is one reason why they take so long to fully understand. These subruels are learned mostly from trial and error: "don't take off unless you are invited or if it is your home break and you don't recognize the person or if they have a kooky board, cheep wetsuit ect. or if they already fell on or missed a few other waves or if they already took of on one of your waves or if none of the regulars know them or if you are in higher rank than they are."

Rank, although not directly noted, is very important. Climbing the latter starting as a child helps you best know The Rules and when you best know The Rules you can best obey them. Time is required to learn and master these Rules. We begin as groms, to be humbled by our elders and learn our place. This is why so many new surfers that learn as an adult are so unaware; they were never "gromed." Consistency, commitment, respect and knowing your place are things you learn while being raised by the rules.

Of course every spot has its own nuances and variations to be cautiously obeyed. If rules are broken you may be chastised by a dirty look, cursing, vandalism or worse, being held down the ladder, never being able to reach a high rank. Anyone who is a good surfer is good, not only by the merit of his or her own surfing, but by his or her respect for The Rules. The Rules are self enforced. We keep them because we want them. Why we want them, I do know know. Maybe just a desire to be at the top of something--we can climb to the top if we build it ourselves. It is a system of meritus honor. It is the way we make it. It is the game we somehow find so important.

It is the game of surfing.



*However I have found a loophole. A kind smile and calm attitude can make many of the laws melt.

2 Entries from Amigos:

  1. The other day at a well known surfing spot break thing, I accidentally sort of paddled into a wave that already had someone on it. I wasn't paying attention, frankly. I luckily pulled out in time to miss beaning the guy on the head. I felt pretty sheepish. That said, he paddles back out and said a few choice words to me, to which I responded in kind, not backing down an inch. He thought twice about his aggression and paddled off. Herein lies the moral: if someone does something stupid, don't start off by reaming them. Give them a chance to cop to it. If they don't, remind them gently first. If they are obviously inexperienced, they probably already feel stupid. If they are obviously experienced, they probably already feel more stupid.
    One wave on, I paddled past him and told him I heard what he said and respected it. He seemed stoked on that. Crisis averted.

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  2. That is usually my plan. Anyone who has surfed with me knows that I am probably the most passive surfer out there. I hope this post showed how silly these "rules" are and how with a nice smile, tension can melt.

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