I have always loved reading old diaries of distant lives. Here you can read my ongoing story, a log of riding a log (if you will) with musings, tales, poetry, jargon, secrets, cliches, whatnots and whatever else might pop into my head. So next time you are stuck indoors, pull up a warm chair and read about the simple happenings of my life in the Pacific Ocean.

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Surf in Art

This guy makes me smile.

To make the most of all sorts of waves, the first Rubenesque single fin was born around the late 1400s. Much like the wave riders of it's time, the full plan shape, AKA the Egg, was wide at the hips and was in vogue right after Botticelli captured it on canvas.

Slight offshores and the warmth of an awaiting towel greet Venus as she comes back from a Mediterranean go out.




Pablo "Pops" Picasso used to enjoy days at the beach playing in the surf and stretching cincos on his longboard. He also enjoyed capturing "caught moments" of everyday life, particularly the surfing life. Here he paints "woman waxing thruster", this body of work was later to be known as his "paraffin period".




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